In a single phrase, it was divine.

Lest you think I’m being hyperbolic, let me assure you that I am not. The house we stayed in was perfect. The weather could not have been better- occasionally a little warm, but all the better for swimming in our salt water pool. We did not eat a single meal that we didn’t rave about. No, seriously. The meals we cooked at home were as wonderful as the ones we ate at restaurants, and we ladies know how to dress a table; we dined like we were part of a movie set. Meredith can build one heck of a cheese board, while Jasmine’s quiche is the stuff of dreams for sure.

The shopping was all we’d hoped for as well. I think our first day at Les Baux held some of everyone’s favorite treasure hunts, though Isle-sur-la-Sorgue did not disappoint and St. Rèmy was its usual wonderful self. And Arles, oh my dear Arles, you have outdone yourself! The vintage shopping has leapt to new heights of wonderfulness even since I was here last in May! Boxes were shipped home, and new suitcases had to be acquired from LeClerc- a sign of success if ever there was one.

We didn’t just shop. We saw the sights as well, and St. Paul de Mausole, the monastery-turned-mental hospital where Vincent Van Gogh committed himself, was among them and was in exceptionally fine form. I’ve been going there for 20-plus years at this point, and there were parts of it that were open that have never been open before, at least when I’ve been. I felt like I gained even more insight into Van Gogh’s world while he was there in St. Rèmy, with the austerity of the sanatorium making the vibrancy of his paintings stand out even more in my mind. I always feel somewhat overwhelmed by emotions that I can’t entirely name when I enter this space, and this visit was no exception.

I’ve mentioned already, briefly, how we also ate exceptionally well. It is France, after all. And drank wine, of course. It is France, after all. On our very first day, after the sensory feast that is Les Baux, we went around the corner to Mas de la Dame winery, where we were led through the vineyard’s offerings by Carine. Carine has the sort of voice that I could listen to all day, every day, and she speaks absolutely beautiful English due to her time working on the Air Base at Istres while the Americans were there in the 90s (the exact place where I worked and during the exact time frame, as an aside). She has also been the one to do tastings for me on several occasions, so I’ve gotten to listen to her gorgeous accent and soft voice many times now, and I swear it makes the already extraordinary wines taste even better. After enjoying the tasting, we went for a short walk around the vineyards and olive groves- it would be difficult to find a more beautiful spot on the earth. When we finished at Mas de la Dame, we drove to nearby Mouriès and sampled more of what the terroir had to offer: olive oils from the nearby groves. And then, to really finish the day well, we concluded with a welcome dinner at Le Vallon de Gayet. The filet mignon with an au poivre sauce and perfectly done frites did not disappoint… alongside a shared bottle of Mas de la Dame, of course.

Day Two. St. Rèmy de Provence. One of my favorites. Yes, I do have lots of favorites, it’s true, but this town deserves a place of honor on my list of favorites. We went to the sanatorium where Van Gogh spent time, which is always wonderful. We shopped at the many, many beautiful boutiques. And we ate lunch at Les Cocottes, which always serves a delightful meal topped off with a trip to the window display of patisseries to choose for dessert. Yes, please.

Sunday morning brought us to one of the highlights of our trip: Market Day at Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. We were up and out early for coffee and croissants at a little cafe along the outer ring of the town, and then we hit the stalls just as they were opening. Meredith was on fire with her picking, while Kallie managed to acquire an absolutely beautiful antique book of mushroom prints (that I’m jealous of but will borrow for artistic inspiration in the future). Jasmine took her vintage clothing shopping to the next level. Luann quietly observed but made some beautiful purchases as well. We all met for lunch along the Sorgue river, with an ancient, moss covered water wheel churning along right beside us. After such an intensely busy morning, it felt like heaven to relax back at our “villa” with some swim time followed by dinner al fresco by the beautifully lit pool. My goodness, these ladies can put together a table setting and a meal. We ate outside under the trees at a a mosaic tile topped table… unbelievably gorgeous. Dinner was a tomato tart, stuffed endives, salted butter roasted radishes, and a beautiful cheese and charcuterie board complete with artichoke cream and garlic confit. And wine, which goes, really, without saying.

If anyone thought that we couldn’t possibly top Sunday’s activities, they were in for a surprise on Monday as we headed to the first of our perched villages: Roussillon. The colors of this tiny village as the sun hits it are something you must see to believe. It is spectacular, and beginning our day with coffee in an outdoor cafe in Roussillon’s square was perfect. We found treasures in a tiny shop that was selling the pigments that are made from the ochre that is mined here, which is the reason for the brilliant colors found on the buildings. And then we moved on to our second perched village: Bonnieux, where we had a lunch reservation at Brasserie les Terrasses, a brasserie style restaurant with food that is good but with views that are amazing. After lunch, we climbed the rest of the way up to the church at the top; sadly the church was closed, but the view from the top of the town made it worth the hard work. We then moved on to our third perched village of the day: Gordes. Gordes looks like a scene from a movie, and it has indeed been the scene of several movies including “A Good Year” with Russell Crowe and Marion Cotillard. The only thing more stunning than the view of the town as you approach it is the view from the town as the sun sets over the Luberon valley.

While we were nearby, we also toured L’Abbaye Notre Dame de Sénanque, a place that has been dear to my heart since about 1998 when I first discovered it. This was the first time I’d actually done a tour, and of course I love the place even more now. The monks have definitely aged, and it appears that no new monks are coming in- I suspect that convincing young men to embrace the monastic life is a tough sell in today’s world, so I’ve been listening to the same ones sing vespers for about 30 years now, I suspect. And I find it so comforting, leaving a prayer intention in the notebook by the door, walking into the simple, austere chapel, and then listening to the voices of these men who have dedicated their lives to this place as they reverberate around the limestone walls.

And then Tuesday was a complete departure from anything we’d done so far. We left the Luberon valley and deep interior Provence, driving an hour and a half to the coast, to the charming seaside town of Cassis. Cassis is a treasure- from the limestone streets carved with little stars (to help make them less slippery when wet, I’d guess, though I’m not sure it’s working- look out!) to the colorful buildings ringing the harbor here, where an ancient castle stands guard from the high cliffs above. I’d like to say it’s a secret, because it is definitely not as well known or as popular as the towns near Nice, but there has been so much written about it proclaiming its virtues that this is no longer true. I will continue to hope, however, that it never loses its charming simplicity. If you’re out early in the morning, you will see the fishermen bringing in the day’s catch to sell harbor side… which is what you’ll be eating for lunch, especially if you get a little further into the city and away from the throngs of tourists. Here, after a boat ride on the Mediterranean, we dined on the day’s catch of a mild, flaky white fish, as well as oysters so delicate and lovely and briny that they tasted like you were becoming a part of the sea itself, as well as white wine from a nearby vineyard that had the barest hint of salt air entwined with the lushness of the grapes.

Then there was dinner.

All our meals were good. Some were exceptional, and dinner on Tuesday night was in that category. Housed in an old truck stop, the old school kind with a handful of motel-type rooms on the second floor, where now the young chef lives with his family when he’s not concocting brilliant meals in the kitchen below, Le Bon Temps in the town of Sènas is truly a hidden gem. I’d link to a website, but he doesn’t have one, but this hasn’t stopped Michelin from finding him and giving him the “Bib Gourmand” award. Now, if you don’t know what the Bib Gourmand award is, you should. It means you’re in for a treat without having to drop 300 euros and reserve 4 months out, which is what dining at a starred restaurant will cost you in time and money. It means that you’re going to eat an extraordinary meal that will have three courses, but you won’t have to ask anyone what it is or how to eat it. Simplicity and affordability are key attributes of this type of restaurant. And deliciousness. Which is what we found in that butternut squash soup with the little dollop of green onion ice cream in the middle.

Words cannot express.

I didn’t get any pictures. I was too engrossed in the food coming my way, so you’ll just have to trust me (and Michelin) as to how good it was. But here’s a picture of one of the calanques on the Mediterranean just for fun.

After such a full Tuesday, Wednesday’s activities were lower key. We returned to St. Rèmy for round two of shopping and dining and exploring, this time focusing more on the outer edge of town where things are little more real and little less polished. The good stuff, in other words- vintage and antique shops, plus a little restaurant where a classic, hearty beef stew was the day’s special. Several of us chose to stay at our villa for the day and enjoy its myriad pleasures. Dinner was again at the house, this time served in the beautiful dining room, with a delicious quiche with a puff pastry crust by Jasmine being the focal point of the meal. We couldn’t have asked for a better counter to the previous day’s busy schedule.

Or the following day’s busy schedule either, for this was our day to head to Arles. Did I save the best for last? Perhaps. I suppose it depends on who you ask. But I am head over heels in love with Arles, and I know that others now feel the same about this Grande Dame of southern France. Arles is an ancient city, a UNESCO world heritage site because of its plethora of Roman architecture sprinkled casually around the city. There’s a bohemian, art-loving feeling to this city, so it’s no surprise that vintage shopping is having a moment here. Lunch at the Camargue Social Club, which specializes in local products, plus a dinner of savory galettes made our day complete.

And then, alas, our last day arrived, much sooner than seemed possible. We spent the day packing, enjoying our gorgeous villa for one last day, and doing some emergency suitcase purchasing in order to get the many good things that were acquired back home. We dined in on takeout from the local pizza restaurant (so good!) and did some laundry, and rested up for the following day’s impending journeys. Even with all the fun we had in such a beautiful place, we had all begun to long for home- home feels so good after you’ve been away.

And now, the planning begins for the next journey. À bientôt, Provence! We will see you again soon.